1992 Les Pavots

The 1994 Chardonnays, which were just released, are spectacular, with the ratings I bestowed on them last year confirmed in a tasting in October: Clos du Ciel (93), Cuvee Indigene (95), Mon Plaisir (94), and the lavishly rich, unctuously textured Pointe Rouge (96). The 1992 Les Pavots, reminiscent of a top-class St.-Julien/Pauillac, is the first vintage that has begun to exhibit some complex cedar, lead pencil, and cassis aromas. Medium to full-bodied, with impressive richness, this layered, intense yet balanced wine still needs another 2-3 years of cellaring, although it reveals more immediate charm and secondary aromas than its three younger siblings. It is a wine that will last for at least 20+ years. The blend for Peter Michael's Les Pavots proprietary red wine varies year to year, but the composition usually includes at least 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5%-15% Merlot, and 5%-15% Cabernet Franc. Sixty percent new French oak casks are utilized. The result is a wine that comes as close as any other California Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine to resembling a structured, rich, complex St.-Julien/Pauillac. The wine is more broad-shouldered and deep than most Bordeaux. Readers should be forewarned that Les Pavots is not made in an up-front, fruity style that begs for immediate consumption. They are rich, full-bodied, complex, restrained wines built for the long haul. That being said, Peter Michael's Les Pavots has enjoyed an unprecedented string of highly successful vintages. While the Peter Michael wines are represented in the major commercial markets throughout the United States, more and more of his wine is sold to the winery's mailing list clients. Given the consistently exceptional quality this winery has exhibited over the past six years, it is essential, particularly if anyone has intentions of trying to purchase the more limited production cuvees, to get on the winery's mailing list. Tel. (707) 942-4459; Fax (707) 942-0209