2017 Magnetic North

The 2017 Magnetic North comes from ungrafted Chenin Blanc planted on red sand over red clay, matured in neutral 300-liter barrels that are 10 years old. It has a very expressive bouquet of lemon thyme, sage, broom, ground stone and just a touch of mint, all very focused and well defined. The palate is full of tension from the start and quite saline in the mouth, offering orange pith, dried mango, white pepper and a slightly ferrous note toward the finish. This feels long in the mouth, although I would be inclined to see it age in bottle for two or three years.

Two small un-grafted Chenin parcels from one high-lying (550 m) Skurfberg farm, grown on fine red sand over red clay. 2,400 bottles. Skurfberg 550 m. Before 2013 they had taken block 9 from this farm, a grafted block. They drove past another small parcel, block 10, ungrafted, less than 1 ha, which had been neglected, and so Magnetic North began in 2013. Now they also include another hectare from block 13. All of it used to go to the co-op and some still does. This vineyard is mass selection from the valley, planted in the mountains. A little more savoury on the nose than the Huilkrans but still a core of pure lemon. Savoury and mealy on the palate. Rich, chewy, amazing depth and freshness. The fruit concentration is stunning but it is not only fruity, there’s all that lovely mealy, savoury, nourishing, textural depth and utterly mouth-watering freshness – makes you so thirsty. There’s a slight grip and a texture and great intensity, so much so that it is almost not refreshing – you need water alongside to quench your thirst. (JH)