2017 Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Côte Bodin

Tendrils of hickory smoke wrap around whiffs of violets on the nose of the 2017 Cote Rotie Cote Bodin. It's an exquisite, charming nose backed by red berries and subtle herbal elements. Only medium-bodied, it's silky and almost delicate on the palate, yet there's also a palpable sense of underlying tensile strength, ample concentration and a lingering, perfumed finish.

Stéphane commented that he always finds a Côte Blonde-like quality from this terroir, and the 2017 Côte Rôtie Côte Bodin (from the northern part of the appellation) offers a big, complex, exotic bouquet of acacia flowers, lavender, orange blossom, and sweet black and red fruits. Rich, ripe, full-bodied, and powerful on the palate, it has plenty of tannins, terrific concentration, and a big finish. Give bottles 4-5 years, and it's going to keep for 10-15 years. Unquestionably, one of the most exciting domaines in the world of wine today is that of superstar winemaker Stephane Ogier, who continues to purchase and plant new vineyards throughout Côte Rôtie and the Northern Rhône. I was blown away by his 2017s, and his Côte Rôtie Côte Blonde is unquestionably one of the wines of the vintage, as well as one of the greatest Côte Rôties I’ve had the opportunity to taste. While it’s still in barrel, the Côte Rôtie Belle Helene is another wine with perfection written all over it. In general, his 2017s shows ripe, expressive aromatics and tons of fruit, yet they have a firm, structured vibe on the palate and need bottle age. The 2018s, which are from a vintage compared to 1991 by Stéphane, show a slightly more rounded, seamless profile with silkier tannins. These wines shine for their purity of fruit as well as balance. While the expensive releases get all the attention, don’t miss the La Rosine, L’Ame Soeur, Saint Joseph, or Côte Rôtie Mon Village from this estate. These are terrific wines that offer loads of character and represent smoking values for the true wine lovers and wine drinkers out there.

A very complex array of spice, licorice, roses and violets on the nose with such intense pepper and restrained purple fruit in the background. The palate has a smooth, silky feel with a spread of elegant, fine-grained tannins and a fresh-plum finish. Drink across the next decade.