1929 Cos d'Estournel

'Pretty worn label and 'worryingly high neck fill', according to Jamie, concerned initially he might have a fake on his hands but it tasted pretty authentic to me. Dark ruby fading to brick. Very recognisably St-Estèphe, even after 81 years. Firm and relatively light bodied with a recognisable structure and strong minerality. Very clean and brisk but with the lovely undertow of a great, ripe vintage which has presumably allowed it to last all these years. Wonderfully complete. A real vindication of how long lived and complex red bordeaux can be. A neat, dry finish after a great array of fine fruit. Really very fine. (JR)