1997 Kistler Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard

The 1997 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard (made from the Mt. Eden clone, which is alleged to be a suitcase clone from Burgundy's Corton-Charlemagne vineyard) is a multi-dimensional wine with a rich, full-bodied, creamy texture, superb buttery, honeyed fruit, subtle pain grille (toast), gorgeously rich fruit, white flowers, buttered popcorn, and liquid gravel-like notes. Combining power with finesse, it should drink well young, and age for 5-7 years. Steve Kistler believes the 1997 Chardonnays are among the finest he has ever produced. The vintage's high yields do not appear to have had an impact on the wines' level of concentration and intensity. Moreover, the 1997's possess an atypical level of tangy, underlying acidity, giving the wines a wonderful vibrancy. The splendid aromatics are matched only by the 1995's. I tasted 8 Chardonnays. While they share a certain similarity, they posssess distinctive attributes that justify the winery's decision to differentiate them. All are fermented with both indigenous and commercial yeasts, given extensive stirring during prolonged contact with the lees, and bottled unfiltered after full malolactic fermentation. The percentage of new French oak varies, with higher percentages for the Camp Meeting Ridge, Hudson, and Cuvee Cathleen offerings. Release date, 3/00. Tel. (707) 823-5603; Fax (707) 823-6709.

Slightly hazy. Flamboyant aromas of orange oil, ripe pear, baked apple, licorice, mint and leesy butterscotch. A wine of impressive dimension and density; still quite closed but extremely fresh, with superb structure and grip. Juicy acidity contributes to the impression of uncompromising dryness. Deep, spicy flavors really stain the palate. Maintained its shape impressively in the open bottle. This wine would do some major damage as a ringer in a flight of top white Burgundies.