2023 Littorai Pinot Noir B.A. Thieriot Vineyard

The 2023 Pinot Noir B.A.Thieriot Vineyard Estate has a deeper feel on the nose initially, with notes of violets, cranberries, red flowers, citrus, and saltiness. The level of focus is pristine, with bright, coiled tannins. The year 2025 marks the 30th anniversary for Littorai. Heidi and Ted Lemon operate Littorai from their Gold Ridge Estate in Sebastapol, where they produce Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from exceptional cool-climate vineyard sites on the Sonoma Coast and in Anderson Valley. Ted is, hands down, one of Sonoma's most important farmers and winemakers today. Though they farm biodynamically, they prefer to describe their practices in the vineyards as “generative farming,” a term intended to include the human relationship to the stewardship and shaping of the land as part of modern nature and integrated farming. In the winery, all the wines undergo spontaneous fermentations, with the reds going through two to three weeks of fermentation, and although Ted is not dogmatic in his approach, each of the wines is raised similarly. All of the wines for this report were tasted at the estate.

The 2023 Pinot Noir B.A. Thieriot Vineyard is open and expressive, transitioning from initial flinty tones to pure rhubarb, blackberry jam, oolong tea leaves, bergamot and soaring floral perfume. The medium-bodied palate is nuanced and spicy with silky tannins, vibrant acidity and a long, layered finish. Just 56 cases were made.

West of the town of Occidental, on the south shoulder of a 1,200 ft ridge on Goldridge loam over sandstone. Protected from the north-west winds and fog by a ridge to the north. Planted to Pinot in 1991 and 1994, it overlooks the fog-filled gap in the Sonoma hills, which leads to Petaluma. Farmed using organic and biodynamic methods but uncertified. Yields in 2023 were a meagre 0.74 tons per acre. Free-run juice from fully destemmed fruit ferments with ambient yeasts in a combination of steel and wood, utilising both punchdowns and pumpovers, with the wines pressed at dryness. Aged for 14–17 months in 20–25% new French oak on the lees with no racking. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 56 cases produced. Smells of cranberry and raspberry fruit. Bright flavours of raspberry, sour cherry and cranberry have a citrus-peel brightness thanks to fantastic acidity. Powdery tannins have a cloud-like quality and coat the mouth, as a core of crushed stone gives way to more flavours of herbs mixed with redcurrant and flowers. There's a crystalline quality to this wine, thanks to both the minerality and fantastic acidity, and just the faintest hint of salinity. (AY)