2004 Alban Grenache Alban Estate Vineyard

We should all be happy about this as the 2004 Grenache is easily one of the top examples of the variety I’ve tasted from California. Flirting with perfection and reminding me of Clos Saint Jean’s Deus Ex Machina from Chateauneuf du Pape (despite being 100% Grenache and having no Mourvedre in the blend), it will easily stand toe to toe with the greatest southern Rhones out there. Sporting a semi-opaque, youthful ruby color, it offers spectacular aromas and flavors of smoked black cherries, melted licorice, graphite, smoked meats and roasted herbs that continue to evolve and gain in richness and depth with time in the glass. Full-bodied and decadent, yet far from a heavyweight, it is graceful and lively on the palate with no hard edges, perfect balance and a seamless, elegant profile that shows only hints of maturity. When all is said and done, this incredible wine will have 20-25 years of total evolution, and hats off to John for this awesome effort. The two Grenache based efforts both come from the original Grenache plantings on the estate which, according to John, were put in because he didn’t know what to do with the vines and was trying to build up cuttings. Moving to the Syrahs, each comes from specific soil types and is named after a family member, with the Reva named after John’s Mother, the Lorraine after his wife, and Seymour’s after his father. All of the Syrahs spend close to 42 months in oak. Tel. (805) 546-0305; www.albanvineyards.com

Deep medium ruby. Exotic nose combines dark cherry, truffle, printer's ink, toffee and mocha. Fleshy, sweet and superconcentrated, with a distinctly carnal quality to the flavors of raspberry, truffle and licorice. Impressively lush and broad on the back, finishing with suave tannins and terrific persistence. A very complete and deep California grenache.

Sadly, yields of one-half ton of fruit per acre resulted in minuscule amounts of the knock-out 2004 Grenache. Along with the Sine Qua Non Grenache, this cuvee represents the highest expression this varietal has yet achieved in the United States. Its deep ruby/purple hue is accompanied by an extraordinary bouquet of black cherry liqueur intermixed with notions of melted licorice, flowers, and blackberries. Full-bodied with spectacular concentration, an expansive palate, and a long, fresh finish, this outrageously beautiful wine should age effortlessly for a decade or more. (Not yet released) Tel. (805) 546-0305