2022 Hermitage

I loved the 2022 Hermitage, which has that classic Hermitage sense of class and structure. Ripe red and black fruits, crushed stone, leather, flowers, and smoky, graphite-like notes all shine in this beauty, and it's medium to full-bodied, with a concentrated, layered mouthfeel, plenty of tannins, and a great finish. Aged 18 months in 30% new demi-muids, this aristocratic, flawlessly balanced, structured Hermitage will benefit from just 2-4 years in the cellar and see its 20th birthday in fine form. Drink 2027-2042. Located in Mercurol, Domaine du Colombier is run by Florent Viale and traces its roots back to the early 20th century, though it was only in 1991 that the family began bottling under their own label. The estate covers around 13 hectares, with 9.2 hectares in Crozes-Hermitage and a small parcel in Hermitage. The winemaking here is traditional, with full destemming and élevage primarily in demi-muids, with the amount of new oak moderate and depending on the cuvée. Crozes-Hermitage wines include the Domaine bottling, the Cuvée Gaby, and a younger vine cuvée, alongside their Hermitage Rouge and Hermitage Blanc. While the purity and texture of the wines can give a modern impression early on, they age beautifully into classic, structured Northern Rhône expressions. The recent releases continue to show outstanding quality across the board, with, perhaps, the nod going to their 2022s.