2008 Pursued by Bear Cabernet Sauvignon

The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Pursued by Bear represents collaboration between Dunham and actor Kyle MacLachlan (hence the Shakespearean stage direction that is its nickname) with its own (hilarious) label but marketed along with the Dunham collection. Source from the Lewis Estate, Wallula, and Phinny Hill vineyards; blended with 8-10% each of Merlot and Syrah (the figures quoted me differ from those on the wine's tech sheet); and given a Dunham-typical 26 months exposure to 100% new oak, this broad, texturally brawny effort displays an aromatic as well as sappy palate complexity of kirsch, licorice, sealing wax, leather, and black tea. A bittersweet dark chocolate note adds to the confectionary impression in a strong finish. I imagine this being best enjoyed over the next 2-4 years. (There is a corresponding Syrah - raised in larger barrels, Dunham tells me - but within the limits I was forced to place on our time together, he did not elect to serve it to me.) Eric Dunham - a Walla Walla native whose family has farmed here for generations and whose parents were among the earliest investors in Canoe Ridge - opened Dunham Cellars in 1999 after several years as assistant at L-Ecole 41, where he made on the side the 1995 Cabernet that was to become his first release. At the time, there weren't even ten Walla Walla wineries, and Dunham nowadays (with winemaking assistance from Daniel Wampfler) enjoys a reputation as one of his region's and Washington State's veterans and benchmarks, in light of which I was a bit underwhelmed by my first experiences. Reds here spend up to 26 months in half to (more usually) 100% new barrels divided between French and American, and an intrusive or obtrusive oakiness - occasionally with consequent drying - concerned me as I tasted. That said, I hope that it will be possible for those more attracted than I am to an overtly sweet (often downright confectionary) and woody style to recognize in my descriptions wines that they will especially appreciate. In Dunham's own words -I want (to bottle) approachable wines, not monsters or wines designed for keeping.- He collaborates with Ken Hart's vineyard management group on three sites now closely associated with this winery: Lewis Estate Vineyard in the foothills of Rattlesnake Ridge, whose reputation as a then new vineyard began with Dunham's 1999 introduction of a single-site Syrah; and two Walla Walla vineyards, Frenchtown and Double River Estates. Tel. (509) 529-4685