2012 Conceito Tinto
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Tasting notes
Mixture of traditional Douro grape varieties (more than 20 grape varieties) including Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela, Rufete. Schist soils. 80-year-old vines from Quinta do Cabido, an inhospitable 'hook' formed by the Teja River, in the parish of Numão. There, an unusual mass of schist causes the water to change course before it flows down towards the Douro River, and the river bank in that place forms a perfect natural amphitheatre facing south. Grapes picked by hand. Partial destemming, followed by crushing and pumping to stainless steel tank. Fermentation with controlled temperature, gentle pumping-overs, final maceration for one week. Malolactic fermentation in tank. 20 months in French oak barrels (50% new). Deep dark black cherry colour. There’s sweet spice from the oak but it cannot dominate those rocky mineral/graphite qualities of the terroir. Some cedary cassis in all the dark fruit qualities. The texture is much thicker and chewier than the Contraste and there’s a little more fulness in the mouth. Fresh, the alcohol well in balance, but the oak has added a definite sweetness. Perhaps more mainstream but not necessarily more elegant. (JH)
Critic scores
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Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
The 2012 Estate Tinto is revisited this issue as part of the vertical of Conceito's Estate red. This lacks the depth of some vintages, but it is fresh, lifted, graceful and powerful. In other words, the same type of profile we saw with the 2011. Beautifully focused, vigorous and a bit astringent at the moment, this has closed up since I last saw it. Handling its oak well, it demonstrates how fine it will be one day. It would really help if you could give it a couple of years before opening it, though. This is a young puppy whose best days are well in front of it. It may not have the same depth as some years, but its fresh feel and serious backbone will serve it well.
Cask sample. A blend of Rabigato, Côdega de Larinho, Códega, Viosinho and Gouveio from a pre-phylloxera vineyard in the Douro Superior. Freshness incarnate, dry and zesty and almost sour in a grapefruit sort of way. Fabulous length and just a slight creaminess. So long. Fine boned, mineral. Tight and energetic but has the makings of delicious complexity. (JH)
About the producer
Product details
Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca/Touriga Francesa, Tempranillo
Red
Dry