2017 Alban Foresythe The Mason

As to the reds, the 2017 The Mason is equal parts Mourvèdre and Syrah and offers a Bandol-like vibe in its sea breeze, iodine, game, peppery garrigue, and new saddle leather-like aromas and flavors. Full-bodied on the palate, with loads of both red and black fruits, it has ultra-fine tannins, remarkable purity, and that weightless power that’s the hallmark of topflight Mourvèdre. It’s always incredibly educational tasting through recent vintages with the Alban family, as well as one of the highlights of my year. John brings an incredible amount of knowledge and experience to the table. As with Guigal in the Northern Rhône, he favors a long, four-year élevage for his wines, and it’s such a treat to look at multiple vintages at the same time. Having said that, this estate is unique in its location, and while it does seem to track the overall vintage style of the Central Coast, that’s not always the case. Looking at the wines reviewed here, the 2017s were just bottled at the time of my visit, and I was able to taste them as pre-bottling samples at the estate and then later via shipped finished bottles in Colorado. While 2017 can be a challenging vintage throughout California due to heat, this estate handled the vintage beautifully, and the wines are rich, textured, and exotic. They’re already expressive and drinking nicely yet will benefit from just 2-4 years of bottle age to integrate some structure. They’ll be long lived and have broad drink windows. The 2018s come from a drought year, and the wines are concentrated, rich, and blockbuster styled, yet there’s a cooler, pure, fresh vibe in the aromatics, and I suspect these will need slightly more time in bottle. I was only able to taste a few 2019s and 2020s, so the majority of those reviews will wait until next year. As I’ve lamented in the past, it’s always been a mystery to me why no one else in the Edna Valley comes anywhere close to the quality that is routinely achieved by Alban.