2010 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

Weightless and pure, the 2010 Chevalier-Montrachet is utterly impeccable. Layers of sublime, ethereal, perfumed fruit appear to literally float from the glass as this feminine, gracious Burgundy seduces the heart, intellect and palate all at once. Subtle saline notes add freshness on the finish. The 2010 is polished and superbly refined from the very first taste. It is another breathtaking wine.

Weightless and pure, the 2010 Chevalier-Montrachet is utterly impeccable. Layers of sublime, ethereal, perfumed fruit appear to literally float from the glass as this feminine, gracious Burgundy seduces the heart, intellect and palate all at once. Subtle saline notes add freshness on the finish. The 2010 is polished and superbly refined from the very first taste. It is another breathtaking wine. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Pierre-Yves Colin and Caroline Morey follow their stunning 2009s with an equally compelling set of 2010s. The 2010s have deep site-specific signatures, rich fruit and plenty of acidity. Fans of this small, but increasingly high profile address will want to flock to these wines. Pierre Yves Colin started picking on September 22. Yields were down just 5-10%, which is pretty remarkable considering the vintage. It was a difficult vintage in the cellar, as malos were late and slow. When I visited last June, virtually all of the wines were still finishing their malos. With the exception of the St. Aubins, the 2010s spent about 18 months in barrel. The St. Aubins were bottled in November 2011. All of the other 2010s were bottled in April 2012. The 2011s, which I tasted from barrel, are very promising, so there is a lot to look forward to. A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; also imported by Bertin Henri Selections, 10900 N.W. 21st Street, Unit 180, Doral, Florida 33172 tel: (305) 343-4054

One barrel from 40- to 45-year-old vines. Pale greenish gold. There is a hint of the wet wool of middle-aged Chablis on the nose. Very elegant yet powerful. Like an old duchess! Lots of green notes and masses of acidity. This is a more typical Chevalier than the Bâtard is a Bâtard. Great concentration underneath. Very, very chewy for the moment. Extremely tight. (JR)