1992 Red

The 1992 Cardinale, which is just being released, is a blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Merlot. This deep ruby-colored wine possesses ripe, toasty, medium to full-bodied flavors, considerable tannin, and admirable density and richness. It should age well for 10-15 years. With the last four vintages, Kendall-Jackson's Cardinale has improved immensely since the days when it was a sterile-filtered, frightfully acidic, innocuous wine that symbolized many of the worst aspects of California winemaking. All that changed in the early nineties, as this wine is no longer filtered, and any acidification is done cautiously. Since 1991, no Cardinale has left a tart, hard impression on the palate, as did previous vintages. Kendall-Jackson, which has created justifiable excitement with their portfolio of single winery estate-bottled, high quality wines known collectively as the Artisans and Estates group, continues to offer a major line-up of varietal wines, as well as a proprietary red, all under the K-J label. I am of three minds about these wines. First, the Vintner's Reserve series has consistently offered consumers reasonably good value for the price. As with most California wines, prices have crept higher, but bargains still exist. The more expensive Grand Reserve series is next in the K-J hierarchy. This is more of a hit or miss category. The selections are generally well-made, but some of these decidedly one-dimensional wines fetch a lofty $40 a bottle. My favorite wine in this series tends to be the Chardonnay. The most disappointing offerings are Kendall-Jackson's flirtation with such esoteric varietals as Nebbiolo and Cabernet Franc. At the top level are the proprietary wines, the white Royale and red Cardinale. Since the early nineties, the Cardinale has been excellent, often outstanding. The first vintages of Royale look to be equally fine efforts. (release date, Spring, 1997) Tel. (707) 263-9333; Fax (707) 263-6817