2021 Haynes Vineyard Forgeron Chardonnay
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Tasting notes
Forgeron comes from a north-leaning parcel from old Wente Clone vines in diatomaceous earth in Coombsville. Winemaker Nico Cueva, formerly of Kosta Browne, uses a whole bunch press, all native yeast fermented, with sur lie ageing in neutral 500-2000-litre casks for 21 months of elevage. Expressive aromatics just leap out of the glass of pith lemon and lemon oil with grapefruit zest and wet stone mineral character with a hint of ginger and a kiss of fennel. MB on the palate offers the most bracing acid tension that has a salty-crushed stone quality about it. At the same time, the fruit profile is absolutely pure and focused and nicely delineated between citrus and stone fruits. There's just so much energy and tension to this wine, and the finish is exceedingly long, revealing more saline nuances, cool, wet slate and candied ginger with a sprinkling of white pepper—a commanding wine.
Critic scores
Average Score
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Jonathan Cristaldi, Decanter
More reviews and scores
The 2021 Chardonnay Forgeron is a broad, ample wine that captures the phenolic intensity that is such a signature of this Coombsville site. Orchard fruit, chamomile, dried flowers and light tropical inflections build in the glass. The Forgeron emerges from the oldest Chardonnay vines on the property, planted in the late 1960s. It spent 22 months on the lees in two 2,000-liter casks, with no SO2 during aging.
The 2021 Chardonnay Forgeron, made from old vines planted in 1967, needs a lot of swirling to bring out notes of Marcona almonds, honey-drizzled pears, fresh pears, and wet slate opening out to nuances of candle wax and candied ginger. The light-bodied palate is silky, with a laser-crisp backbone and incredibly intense citrus and pear layers, finishing long and steely. Wow!
From two blocks of the original late-1960s plantings, most (85%) of the 2021 Chardonnay Forgeron fermented and matured in two 2,000-liter foudres. Hints of crushed stone and a slight suggestion of struck flint mark the nose of this citrusy, linear wine. Slightly more concentrated than the Vigneron bottling, this is intensely flavorful yet also cool and refreshing on the lingering finish.
About the producer
Long considered the crown jewel of Coombsville, Haynes is a vineyard of profound distinction—a site where climate, geology, and heritage converge to produce one of Napa Valley’s most singular terroirs.