1986 William Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve

Although the color remains a healthy dark ruby/purple, there are virtually no aromas (sterile filtration?) remaining in this wine. What once seemed to be fruity Cabernet, now comes across as a narrow, high strung, appallingly acidified wine with no joy or character. The acid seems only to mask whatever else might be in this wine. It will keep for 10-15, perhaps 20-25 years, but there is no fruit, just acidity, alcohol, and tannin. Clearly wines such as this are testaments to the radical extremes modern day oenology has pursued. Fortunately, such a winemaking philosophy continues to be discredited by both consumers and wineries in pursuit of wines that reflect their vineyard terrain, varietal character, and vintage personality. The tasting notes for this section are from two single blind tastings, one conducted in May, 1996, in California, and the other in June, 1996, in Baltimore.