2016 Weingut Knoll Grüner Veltliner Schutt Loibner Smaragd

Low-toned and with earthy richness of artichoke and roasted rutabaga that dramatically distinguishes it from the corresponding Kreutles, this also offers an intriguing, mouthwatering combination of meaty, alkaline, herbal and seaweedy elements reminiscent of mussels steamed with fennel. The feel is glossy, the finish impressively persistent as well as mouthwateringly salt-tinged, and the overall impression substantial, yet not at all heavy, let alone alcoholically freighted. This really grows in the glass.