2008 Mas Jullien Terrasses du Larzac

Mas Julien’s 2008 Coteaux du Languedoc Terrasses du Larzac – based on Carignan and Mourvedre, with support from Syrah and Grenache – exhibits a clear sense of multi-layered, interactive complexity that contrasts strikingly with the compact, virtually implosive concentration of its 2007 counterpart. Scents of grapefruit rind and iris exotically accent blackberry and cassis, while fruit pit piquancy, iodine, peat, and bittersweet herbal concentrates lend a medicinal cast to the luscious impression of ripe, dark berries. Ultra-fine tannins and an exhilarating sense of lift confirm me in the belief that this will be worth following for at least a decade. Jullien’s best wines tend to engender a telltale tactile tingle on the tongue, but this leaves behind a reverberative throat-singing of flavors. Olivier Jullien is expanding his acreage in high-elevation Saint-Privat, involving both new plantings and old vines, and including the acquisition of three rare old parcels of Carignan Blanc there, the last of which will come on-line next year. Given the talent and track record behind this estate, it is unsurprising that its flagship 2007 displays unusual tannic refinement and energy for that vintage, and that its 2008s are not to be missed. (For some reason, I was not offered an opportunity in April to taste the most recent installments of the domaine’s second wine, “Les Etats d’Ame.”) Jullien had largely not determined his 2009 blends when I visited him in April. Tasted from his usual mixture of foudre, muids and demi-muids (nowadays favoring Austrian tonnelier Franz Stockinger), the various lots displayed profound complexity, including floral and mineral dimensions as well are refinement of tannin exceptional for their vintage. These 2009s finished malo early, on the back end of alcoholic fermentation, but Jullien is a partisan of long elevage. Conditions in 2009 as well as the performance of his raw materials from that vintage simply reinforce Olivier Jullien’s preference in his grand vin for Carignan and Mourvedre (which, incidentally, finished in the 14-14.5% alcohol range). He prefers to keep his Grenache apart, not only because it characteristically achieves his highest alcohol levels but because he believes it too easily dominates any blend. When it comes to higher altitudes and stonier soils around Saint-Privat – as opposed to the one parcel of this cepage that remains in his majority Jonquieres vineyards – Jullien is willing to credit Grenache with more refined potential, which he tries to showcase in his Carlan cuvee. “As for Syrah,” he says, “that’s the spice in the blends. It’s easy for Syrah in Jonquieres’ deep soils to become very animal and a bit too much” (those last two words spoken in English). It will come as no shock to anyone who has read the general introduction to this Languedoc coverage (published in issue 195) to learn that the potential for 2010 at his estate – despite unusually protracted picking due to irregular flowering and cool weather – is thrilling in both red and white. Imported by Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.

30% Carignan (old vines), 40% Mourvèdre, 25% Syrah, 5% Grenache. Bright crimson. Rusty nail. Sweet and round and angular, ungracious but confident, awfully chewy. (JR)