2022 Benom Lapsus

A serious blend of 27% Graciano, 25% Syrah, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 23% Mourvèdre, the 2022 Lapsus delivers juicy red, blue, and black fruits, peppery herbs, leather, and graphite, with obvious minerality. Aged 18 months in 60% new French oak and 40% neutral oak, it’s medium to full-bodied, concentrated, focused, and lively on the palate, with firmer yet integrated tannins and outstanding length. Drink 2027-2037. I always love these wines from the Fabre brothers Arnaud and Guillaume. Their Benom releases pull primarily from Paso Robles (Willow Creek and Adelaida) with additional fruit from the San Luis Obispo Coast and Edna Valley. The lineup includes one white, Contrast, a Chardonnay-based blend with a splash of Sauvignon Blanc raised in a mix of neutral and new French oak and concrete, and a range of reds: Origin is pure Cabernet Sauvignon, Les Deux Frères is Grenache-driven with Cabernet Sauvignon and a touch of Syrah, Lapsus is close to an even split of Graciano, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Mourvèdre, Muze is Mourvèdre dominant with Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, Hoc is led by Carignan with Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, and Reflet is nearly an even split of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Most spend about 18 months in French oak with varying percentages of new wood, and components for some wines see neutral oak or concrete. The wines are impeccably made and age-worthy.

Savory herbs mix with wet stone before giving way to lavender-laced blackberries as the 2022 Lapsus blossoms in the glass. Lifted and graceful in style, it offers tart red and black fruits energized by fresh acidity. Violet inner florals and a splash of baking spice embellish the close. Savory and long, it tapers off with a pleasantly bitter tinge as a hint of licorice is framed by silken tannins. The 2022 Lapsus is a pleasure bomb.