2010 Alzinger Riesling Hohereck Smaragd

An Alzinger 2010 Riesling Smaragd Hohereck delivers an alluring display of bittersweet floral perfume (iris, thyme, gentian) and what I can only refer to as shimmering, crystalline mineral-fruit exchange, its luscious white peach and refreshing lime persistently suffused with high-toned herbal and floral essences; and savory salinity adding mouthwatering appeal to a dazzlingly dynamic and enervating finish. This palpably high-extract yet buoyant and vibrant 2010 ought to be worth following for at least a decade. The Alzingers didn’t begin harvesting until the third week of October in 2010 and continued until November 18. Riesling Federspiel alone was de-acidified (as must). Leo Alzinger senior confirmed the judgment of other Wachau veterans that there was no known precedent for the combination of high acidity; sugar; and extract with genuine phenolic ripeness and next to no botrytis. (Somehow I missed out, incidentally, on tasting this year’s Liebenberg Riesling Smaragd.) Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300