2011 Red Car Chardonnay Zephyr Farms

Light gold. A complex bouquet evokes pear skin, anise, iodine, smoky lees and minerals, with a sneaky floral nuance building in the glass. Palate-staining, sharply focused citrus and orchard fruit flavors are braced by dusty minerals and pick up ginger and floral notes with air. Sappy but restrained, finishing with excellent cut and strong mineral character.

Red Car’s 2011 Chardonnay Zephyr Farms emerges from the glass with dried pears, white flowers, pears and almonds. Rich and enveloping, the 2011 has more depth than the straight Sonoma Coast bottling, but just as much freshness and vivacity. Hints of light floral honey and savory herbs flesh out on the generous, inviting finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Red Car is one of the most exciting young wineries in Sonoma. Under proprietor Carroll Kemp, the wines have made huge strides in quality just over the last few years. Red Car’s Estate vineyard was only planted beginning in 2006, with Syrah, which was followed by Pinot Noir in 2007. Beginning with the 2011 vintage, Red Car has begun to get rid of the fanciful proprietary name (which always struck me as a bit of a gimmick) in favor of vineyard names, a choice that seems much more appropriate for a winery with this level of ambition. Tel. (707) 829-8500