1845 Cossart Gordon & Co Bual Solera Madeira

Unbelievably, two guests generously proffered the same 1845 Bual Madeira at dinner—one with a stencilled bottle, the other labelled—which provided a fascinating comparison. This was a solera and so would have contained other vintages. This particular year was a very good one for Madeira wine, especially Bual. They both had a captivating bouquet with scents of nutmeg, liquorice, dusty attic and light chlorophyll aromas. One was slightly more oxidative than the other. Tangy marmalade and bitter orange commingle with kirsch and stewed fig on the well-balanced palate. The finish is on the drier side for Bual, which is no surprise given that it's 180 years old, and leaves light notes of Chinese five-spice to linger. Having been fortunate enough to taste a few Madeira this old, I would not place this one amongst the best, but it certainly gives pleasure. Tasted blind at the "five" dinner at Domaine de Chevalier.