2004 Patrick Lesec Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Galets Blonds

Usually one of the best cuvees and certainly noteworthy in every vintage that Lesec has produced is the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Galets Blonds. This is an outstanding effort in the vintage with its roasted herbs, sweet kirsch liqueur notes, and a hint of raspberry and some beefy notes. About 25% stems were used in the upbringing of this wine, which is aged completely in cuve prior to being bottled. This is a fleshy, full-bodied, muscular wine that will actually benefit from several years of bottle age and drink well for another 15 or more years. Patrick Lesec, the Frenchman who spent an important segment of his life in Santa Barbara, does a stunning job of accessing wines from old vineyards and putting together sensational blends in the southern Rhone. Everything is treated with respect for the regional typicity and character of the grapes. His strengths are the Chateauneuf du Papes, his Cotes du Rhones, as well as Vacqueyras and Gigondas. I haven’t reviewed everything that I’ve tasted, but just about anything with the Patrick Lesec label on it deserves a try as the prices are uncommonly fair for wines of such high quality. What I do find about them, since I purchase them myself, is that since they are made with minimal exposure to oxygen in a very reductive way, they often seem dormant, even dumb, when first released in the bottle. But, since they are bottled unfined and unfiltered, the full character does come forward, although it usually requires 2-4 years of bottle age, especially for the bigger wines from Chateauneuf du Pape. In any event, I consider this an unheralded source for top quality wines from a high-class negociant dedicated to artisinal winemaking. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA 508 545 1532; Vermont Wine Merchants, Burlington, VT 802 658 6771; Noble House, New York, NY 212 736 0040; William Harrison Imports, Manassas,VA 703 815 9463; The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL 561 998 0029; Fine Vines, Melrose Park, IL 708 343 6702; Silver State, Reno, NV 775 331 3400 and Wine Warehouse, Commerce, CA 323 724 1700

Bright red. Vibrant red berry and cherry on the nose, with a soaring floral quality, which Lesec says is typical of grenache from La Crau. Fresh and sweet, with bright raspberry and dark cherry flavors, medium weight and a fresh tone to the finish, despite the fact that the wine carries 16% alcohol. The sweet finish shows excellent persistence.