NV Osborne Oloroso Sibarita VORS

2% PX in this. Old casks bought from Domecq for this blend. Dark mahogany, very vibrant colour. Hugely pure and well judged. Tastes dry but not painful. Clean and pure. Like cut-peel liqueur. Smoky, peaty finish. The Laphroig of sherries? (JR)

The NV Oloroso 1730 VORS is not a vintage wine, 1730 is the brand, and it’s produced from Palomino grapes aged oxidatively for at least 30 years. Deep chestnut-colored, the perfumed nose is redolent of mushroom, damp albero sand, vanilla and noble woods with a toasty-smoky character, very concentrated, even a little tannic. This will do well with meat stews. Drink 2013-2018. This is the old almacenista Bodega of Pilar Aranda in Jerez, purchased by Alvaro Domecq Romero in 1998. In 2005 Domecq, who was as enthusiastic about Sherry as he was about horses, passed away, and since 2007 the winery has been part of the Avant Selecta group of wineries that produce wines in eight different appellations in Spain. As it is the case in many Sherry wineries, they own no vineyards. The surname is the same, of course, but do not confuse this small operation with the huge and sadly non-existent Pedro Domecq. Imported by Aviva Vino, New York, NY; tel. (212) 244-4495; www.avivavino.com

Average age over 30 years. Dark tawny with yellow-green rim. There is some decay on the nose. And masses of acidity. Hardly tastes sweet at all. Woody finish. Reminds me a bit of those old Soviet wines I tasted in Russia. Baked and a bit tired. (JR)