2008 Charles Heidsieck Vintage Brut Rosé
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Tasting notes
The 2008 Champagne Millésime Rose is 63% Pinot Noir, with 9% of that being still red wine and the rest Chardonnay. Notably, for this vintage they have lowered the dosage levels from years past. It is fresh with rose petal, rhubarb, sweet herbs, and apricot. The palate is structured with tart cherry, raspberry, nectarine, and salty earth as well as an attractive stony texture. Current cellar master Cyril Brun took over the position at Charles Heidsieck in 2015, having previously worked for LVMH at Veuve Clicquot for 15 years. Mr. Brun has been bold in taking the house into its next chapter by making advancements in the winery while also paying homage to the history of the house. First, he reintroduced old vinification principals of only using old barrels. He also began trials right away in 2015 to bring back the Champagne Charlie Cuvée, with the first edition, the 2017, just released into the market. Champagne Charlie was always labeled as a vintage wine, but it is now known to have been a blended style heavily reliant on reserve wines. The last release of the cuvée was the 1985 “vintage,” and the current release date coincides with Charles-Camille Heidsieck’s bicentennial. On the innovative side, Brun is using jetting technique at disgorgement for oxygen management, the idea being to expose the wine early to oxygen, and then to close it in order to best preserve the wine’s longevity and freshness. He has also expanded the range of cuvees while honoring previous cuvées. 2018 brought the relaunch of the Blanc de Blancs, a blended style from ten crus, from different years, with the initial release base coming from the 2016 vintage. Brun’s goal is to balance the opulence of the house style with freshness and preserve their hallmark silky texture throughout the range. Looking to the future, this house is providing a lot to be excited about, with an increasingly distinctive and diverse portfolio. Drink 2023-2040.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jeb Dunnuck
William Kelley, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
Disgorged in 2020, the newly released 2008 Brut Rosé unwinds in the glass with youthfully reticent notes of tart red berries, white flowers and citrus oil, framed by a touch of light reduction—which I suspect is accentuated by the wine's Diamant closure. Following the wine in my office, it was only on the third day that hints of plums and licorice began to emerge. Medium to full-bodied, taut and chiseled, it's concentrated and layered, with real cut and energy, but it's also borderline austere and will require patience to realize all its potential. When compared with the rich, demonstrative 2006, it was to be expected that the 2008 would represent a change of pace; but the contrast is even starker than I would have expected.
Disgorged in 2020, the newly released 2008 Brut Rosé unwinds in the glass with youthfully reticent notes of tart red berries, white flowers and citrus oil, framed by a touch of light reduction—which I suspect is accentuated by the wine's Diamant closure. Following the wine in my office, it was only on the third day that hints of plums and licorice began to emerge. Medium to full-bodied, taut and chiseled, it's concentrated and layered, with real cut and energy, but it's also borderline austere and will require patience to realize all its potential. When compared with the rich, demonstrative 2006, it was to be expected that the 2008 would represent a change of pace; but the contrast is even starker than I would have expected.
The red wine almost seems to tame this 2008 a little, adding warmth and roundness to an alluring, complex rosé that takes in savoury detail of sous-bois and dried spices, roasted red apple and cherry, all sitting beneath the same super-fine toasted almond and macaron top notes as the blanc. The acidity rolls on and on with boundless energy, but the narrow, fine fruit and umami flavour hold on for the ride. This superb, serious rosé still has considerable life ahead of it.
About the producer
Founded by the original “Champagne Charlie”, Champagne Charles Heidsieck is one of the region’s smaller Houses but also one of its most quality-focused. From its Brut Réserve to its prestige cuvée, Blanc des Millénaires, the wines are rich, vinous and complex.