2009 Dehlinger Claret

Dehlinger's 2009 Claret is surprisingly rich and bombastic. Dark black fruit, savory grilled herbs, graphite, menthol and licorice all jump from the glass. Though very much an extrovert, the 2009 possesses fabulous balance and plenty of harmony. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Tom and Eva Dehlinger's wines stand out for many reasons, including their very fair prices. This year I thought the Syrahs were particularly of note. Yields have been down in the last few years because of a conversion back to cane pruning, but with 2011 yields are up to a bit higher than normal. The Dehlinger wines are beautiful, full of character and richly deserving of a broader audience. Tel. (707) 823-2378

Opaque ruby. Alluring aromas of cassis, cherry compote, Indian spices, iron and graphite, with a vanilla nuance that builds with air. A deep, youthfully structured wine that offers sweet red and dark fruit flavors laced with mocha, cola and vanilla. Concentrated and fleshy but comes across as lively, finishing with very good lift and vibrancy.