2009 Pierre-Marie Chermette Fleurie Les Garants

Like his other wines of the vintage, Chermette’s 2009 Fleurie Les Garants – from lower down than Poncie and with southwestern inclination, but essentially the same soil – lacks the dark color that marks so many 2009s. Scents of fresh blackberry and purple plum adumbrate a generously juicy palate with a vivid sense of fruit pit and berry seed. The Poncie is cooler in personality though still full of energy, whereas the Les Garants is richer on the palate and more overtly (in this case black-) fruited. A pungent smokiness and tactile sense of stony underlying minerality characterize this wine’s positively gripping finish, and as it opens, elusive hints of spice and further minerality emerge. I would plan on following this outstanding value for half a dozen years, if not longer. Pierre Chermette – for more about whom, consult my report in issue 184 – picked his crus from September 7-15 and his vines in the South of Beaujolais the week following, managing to keep alcohols below 13.5%. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800