2009 Copain Syrah Baker Ranch
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Without question Wells Guthrie's 2009 Copain Syrah Baker Ranch was one of the most talked about wines of the afternoon. How could a wine deliver so much fruit intensity and yet remain so weightless? Well, that is one of the great mysteries of wine. Pinot Noir can do that, and not just in Burgundy. After the tasting, several sommeliers came up to me and told they thought I was crazy to serve the Copain after the Sine Qua Non and the other bigger wines. But I wanted to prove a point. And that is that delicate wines can be appreciated after more intense wines. The idea that concentration and ripeness overpower understatement is nothing more than an urban myth. If and when that happens, those results reflect the preferences of specific tasters, not the inherent qualities of the wines themselves. It took a lot of time for people to wrap their minds around the Copain Baker Ranch. But there appeared to be a consensus. It was a dazzling wine.
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Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Jeb Dunnuck
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The 2009 Syrah Baker is another hugely delicious wine. Layers of silky fruit wrap around the palate in this effortless, totally gracious Syrah. Firm yet totally polished tannins frame the fruit. The 2009 Baker will require a bit of patience, but the intensity is present for the wine to develop beautifully over the coming years. A final burst of dark fruit informs the sexy, refined finish.
The 2009 Syrah Baker is another hugely delicious wine. Layers of silky fruit wrap around the palate in this effortless, totally gracious Syrah. Firm yet totally polished tannins provide the backbone of support. The 2009 Baker will require a bit of patience, but the intensity is present for the wine to develop beautifully over the coming years. A final burst of dark fruit informs the sexy, refined finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. This set of wines from Copain and proprietor Wells Guthrie was among the most exciting I tasted from Sonoma this year. Guthrie has decided to release his 2010 Pinots before his 2009s, as he thinks the 2010s will drink better earlier, owing to their mid-weight structures. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010 Pinots, as they had just been bottled at press time. The Pinots are made with fully de-stemmed fruit and are aged in French oak barrels, approximately 25% new. Guthrie uses 50-100% whole clusters for his Syrahs. These are some of the most refined, subtle wines being made in Sonoma today. Stylistically, the wines are a bit more restrained than they have been in the past, as the fruit is now being picked around 23 Brix as opposed to 24 or 24.5, as was the norm a few years back. Guthrie describes 2009 as a cool vintage with a late set but otherwise even ripening for both Pinot and Syrah, with no late rains during the final phase of ripening. Vintage 2010 was much more challenging. Rain and very cold weather were pretty much a constant the entire year. Frost, rain during flowering and a cold summer lowered yields dramatically. Achieving full ripeness was much more of a challenge in 2010 and some of the wines were lightly chaptalized. Tel. (707) 541-7474
The 2009 Copain Syrah Baker Ranch is a pretty Syrah that delivers crunchy black and blue fruits that are intermixed with loads of pastilles, violets, and mineral qualities on the nose. Very fresh, pure, with racy acidity, and firm structure and tannin, this medium-bodied Syrah should benefit from a 1-2 years of bottle age, and evolve gracefully for 5-8 years after that.