2009 Red Car Syrah 22 Vivio Vineyard

The 2009 Syrah 22 Vivio Vineyard is a big, chunky wine, especially next to the other 2009s at Red Car. A hearty, big Syrah, the 22 Vivio explodes from the glass with a heady melange of blue/black fruits, iron, blood, savory herbs, licorice and menthol. These red volcanic soils add a measure of complexity, that is true, but I don’t find the same level of complexity or finesse that defines Red Car’s Estate Syrahs. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Red Car is one of the most exciting young wineries in Sonoma. Under proprietor Carroll Kemp, the wines have made huge strides in quality just over the last few years. Red Car’s Estate vineyard was only planted beginning in 2006, with Syrah, which was followed by Pinot Noir in 2007. Beginning with the 2011 vintage, Red Car has begun to get rid of the fanciful proprietary name (which always struck me as a bit of a gimmick) in favor of vineyard names, a choice that seems much more appropriate for a winery with this level of ambition. Tel. (707) 829-8500

Bright purple. Aromas and flavors of dark berry preserves, violet, smoked meat, Indian spices and woodsmoke. Broad, spicy and intense, showing a pliant, silky texture; vibrant acidity gives the sappy blackberry and cassis flavors lift and cut. Finishes spicy and very long, with lingering floral and smoky character.