2017 Beta Cabernet Sauvignon Monticello Vineyard

The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Montecillo Vineyard went into new oak but light-toast, 600-liter barrels, not the barriques that had been used in previous vintages. Whether it's the change in élevage or the jump of five years in age difference, but this wine looks more herbal and fresher than the 2012, more like the 2011—which winemaker Ketan Mody prefers. It's medium to full-bodied, linear, elegant and even slightly austere. Give it a few years in the cellar.

The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Montecillo Vineyard is a rich, exotic wine that captures all of the magic of this Sonoma site. Dense and plush, with tons of underlying structure, the 2017 is hugely promising. Big tannins wrap around a core of sweet floral notes and red-toned fruit. There is so much to look forward to.