2016 Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru
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Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
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The 2016 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts was showing a little more reduction on the nose compared to the other cuvées. Underneath though, lies intense and quite voluminous red berry fruit, later rose petals, a touch of woodland coming through. The palate is medium-bodied with quite high-toned entry, vivacious blueberry fruit mixed with cassis and orange pith, then closing in quickly on a structure and grippy finish (it finished its malolactic not until September so this would explain this). It will require several years in bottle. It is not quite as audacious as the 2015 Malconsorts, but certainly a prince to that king.
65% new oak. He is lucky enough to have 0.75 ha. No frost in the Vosne premiers crus. He lost some in Suchots, and Combe d’Orveaux and Les Thoreys in the lower parts. 70% lost in Chambolle. A little more oak sweetness on the nose. Deep crimson with some sweet toast and charry notes. Then sweeter and more rounded on the palate – more red fruit and more gentle than any wines from this producer so far. Dense and compact but rounded. Power and length but has more generous fruit in the middle. Very long. Densely packed. (JH)