2011 Foxen Syrah Toasted Rope

(made entirely from fruit grown in the Vogelzang vineyard and includes 15% co-fermented viognier; all Hungarian oak puncheons, 30% of them new): Deep red. High-pitched red berry and rose scents are given depth by suggestions of woodsmoke and licorice. Sappy, penetrating red fruit flavors are full of verve and sharpened by a palate-numbing black pepper quality. There's a litheness here that reminds me of pinot noir. Closes tangy and long, with impressive clarity, silky tannins and lingering smokiness. This intriguing wine, modeled on Cote-Rotie (mission accomplished), was bottled unfined and unfiltered.