2009 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard

The 2009 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard weaves across the palate with layers of expressive, ripe red fruit. The Hirsch impresses for its delineation and nuance, both of which are on full display here. Sweet dark berries, spices and licorice add complexity as the wine opens up in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. I tasted a dizzying array of Pinot Noirs from Williams Selyem and winemaker Bob Cabral. Yields were down in 2009 because of bunch-stem necrosis, a condition that can occur because of weather/humidity extremes or mineral imbalances. Otherwise, it was a pretty regular vintage with an even set and a harvest that took place beginning in early September. Tel. (707) 433-6425

Bright ruby. Spicy red and dark berries and cherry-cola on the nose, with complicating notes of dried rose, white pepper and fruitcake. Light on its feet but very concentrated, offering powerful red fruit and floral pastille flavors that expand in the mid-palate. Becomes deeper and smokier with air while maintaining its balance and focus. This leads with finesse but there's sneaky power as well. Finishes racy and pure, with an echo of bitter cherry and excellent persistence.