2006 Pax Syrah Nellessen Vineyard

Another cool climate offering is the 2006 Syrah Nellessen Vineyard. More herbal, a bit lighter, and neither as complete nor interesting as the Kobler cuvee, it is northern Rhone-like, but reveals a certain leanness and austerity that will only become more exaggerated with age. After a turbulent year at Pax Cellars, where winemaker Pax Mahle departed to start his own project, owner Joe Donelan moved quickly to bring in Tyler Thomas, who spent four years working for Burgundy’s famed proprietor of Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Aubert de Villaine, at his California outpost, HDV. The first vintage where Thomas will have complete control will be 2008, although he will bottle the 2007s. Joe Donelan told me he has long-term contracts with the vineyards he and Pax Mahle had accessed, so these superb sites will remain part of the portfolio. Following are my tasting notes on the late-released 2006s and the limited portfolio of 2007s. Pax Cellars will eventually release more 2007s, but they were not ready to taste during my visit. Tel. (707) 592-0782; Fax (707) 591-0784