2008 Donelan Venus

The gorgeous 2008 Donelan Venus, a blend of 93% Roussanne and 7% Viognier, ranks alongside the great white Rhone Ranger blends produced by Manfred Krankl at Sine Qua Non. It offers a light green hue to its color, explosive aromatics of tropical fruits including lychee nuts, pineapples, and orange marmalade, excellent acidity, and superb richness. This dry, full-bodied, intense elixir’s alcohol is only 12%, which is hard to believe given the flavor intensity. This beautiful wine showcases the talents of Joe Donelan’s new winemaker, Tyler Thomas. The troubled departure of Pax Mahle as winemaker from this operation owned primarily by Joe Donelan has resulted in a change of name. Coinciding with the 2008s, this is now Donelan Family Wines. The reviews that follow include the 2007s, the last wines produced under the Pax Cellars moniker, with the 2008s to be released under the Donelan Family Wines. Pax Mahle now has his own up-and-coming winery called Wind Gap. One of the most interesting vineyards Donelan has used is the Obsidian Vineyard in Knight’s Valley. This vineyard’s soil resembles black marble, and the result is an extraordinary wine with characteristics that are nearly impossible to articulate. Tel. (707) 591-0782; Fax (707) 591-0784