2006 Pax Cuvée Moriah

Another austere effort is the blend of Grenache (88%), Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise, and Roussanne, the elegant 2006 Cuvee Moriah (100% whole clusters). It offers up sweet aromas of kirsch, licorice, and spice box, but narrows out in the mouth. The wine is medium-bodied, with noticeable acidity as well as an angularity that is somewhat worrisome. It is not at the high level of quality expected from this estate. After a turbulent year at Pax Cellars, where winemaker Pax Mahle departed to start his own project, owner Joe Donelan moved quickly to bring in Tyler Thomas, who spent four years working for Burgundy’s famed proprietor of Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Aubert de Villaine, at his California outpost, HDV. The first vintage where Thomas will have complete control will be 2008, although he will bottle the 2007s. Joe Donelan told me he has long-term contracts with the vineyards he and Pax Mahle had accessed, so these superb sites will remain part of the portfolio. Following are my tasting notes on the late-released 2006s and the limited portfolio of 2007s. Pax Cellars will eventually release more 2007s, but they were not ready to taste during my visit. Tel. (707) 592-0782; Fax (707) 591-0784