2017 Kosta Browne - Chardonnay El Diablo
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Tasting notes
The 2017 Chardonnay El Diablo Vineyard is beautiful, with a rich yet also racy style that's going to benefit from bottle age. Meyer lemons, tart citrus, mint, and honeysuckle notes all emerge from the glass, and it's medium-bodied, with impressive concentration, high yet clean and integrated acidity, and a great finish. It's a beautiful, layered, complex Chardonnay that will benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age and keep for 15 years or more. This cuvée was mostly barrel fermented yet had 23% fermented in foudre. Aging occurred in a mix of Austrian and French oak. Another estate that has changed their style (for the better, I think), Kosta Browne’s latest 2018s have beautiful purity and elegance as well as richness. They’re certainly in the top handful of wines in this report.
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James Suckling
Jeb Dunnuck
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The 2017 Chardonnay El Diablo aged 20 months in 51% Austrian oak and 16 months in 26% French oak. "We are the only ones who use the name 'El Diablo' on the label," says assistant winemaker Julien Howsepian. "Others call it Eastside Road." It opens with compelling scents of lemon curd, petrichor, gunflint and nutmeg over a core of quince paste, white peach, chalk and mushroom. It's medium-bodied and earthy in the mouth, fleshing out to notions of crushed almonds as the mouthwatering acidity builds in amplitude, carrying the long, mineral-driven finish. This is a bit disjointed and needs at least another couple of years in bottle. 110 cases were made.
This has a striking nose with stone and flint, as well as yellow grapefruit and lemon pith. The palate has such tautness and layered texture, building on the palate. Great depth and detail here. The acidity is scintillating and the grilled cashew-nut finish is hauntingly beautiful.
About the producer
Kosta Browne is one of California's most acclaimed wineries, renowned for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that express the character of top vineyard sites across Sonoma and beyond. Combining meticulous sourcing with thoughtful winemaking, the wines offer richness, precision, and remarkable sense of place.