2011 Saxum James Berry Vineyard Cuvée
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Tasting notes
Reminding me of a top 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape (the 2010 Raymond Usseglio Cuvee Imperiale to be exact), the 2011 James Berry Vineyard is a blend of 69% Grenache, 13% Mourvedre, 13% Syrah, 2% Counoise, and a splash of Roussanne, that was aged in a combination of concrete (Grenache) and larger oak puncheons. A fresh, detailed and more elegant example of the cuvee, it offers gorgeous notes of ripe berry fruit, loads of exotic spice, violets, pepper and lavender to go with a full-bodied, beautifully pure and layered profile on the palate. It’s no blockbuster, but has loads of energy and tension, as well as class and refinement. Give it 2-3 years in the cellar and enjoy it over the following decade or longer. This was another great visit with Justin Smith, and he continues to tweak and experiment with varying degrees of whole cluster and concrete, puncheon and barrel aging regimes. Looking at his 2011s, I was able to taste all of these from bottles in Colorado, and they’ve closed down substantially since I reviewed them from barrel. In most cases, these took a day or more to fully unwind, and the style here is much more Rhone-like, with spice, pepper and meaty aromatics paired with focused, firm palate profiles. These are gorgeous wine that won’t start to show their full potential for another 3-4 years. The 2012s are just as good, if not better, yet are surprisingly tannic and structured. Given the up-front nature of the vintage, I was surprised by the tannin profile and more reserved style in most of the wines. Nevertheless, the concentration level here is on par with, if not slightly greater than, the 2011s, and they show the fabulous purity and focus of the vintage. Both of these vintages will need short-term cellaring. My favorite of the three vintages reviewed here, the 2013s offer thrilling density of fruit, massive concentration, and sound underlying structure that keeps the wines focused and balanced. I think short-term cellaring will be helpful here as well, but I wouldn’t be afraid to crack a bottle or two on release either. Despite these vintage differences, as I hope the reviews and scores show, these are incredible wines that make the most of this special terroir. Truthfully, there are few mailing lists out there worth being on, but without a doubt, this is one of them. Tel. (805) 610-0363; www.saxumvineyards.com
Critic scores
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Dark red plums, exotic spices, crushed flowers, menthol and new leather are some of the nuances that blossom as the 2011 James Berry Vineyard opens up in the glass. The use of 33% whole clusters adds texture and aromatic complexity in a wine that impresses for its purity. Some of the Grenache was done in concrete, which allows the true personality of the fruit to shine. Hints of tar, game and licorice meld into the expressive finish.
(69% grenache, 15% mourvedre, 13% syrah, 2% counoise and 1% roussanne; 15.5% alcohol): Inky ruby. Sexy, highly perfumed aromas of red fruit liqueur, lavender and Asian spices, with a bright mineral overtone. Rich and fleshy but lively, offering intense raspberry and cherry-cola flavors and exotic star anise and floral pastille accents. Silky tannins sneak in late and add shape to a long, smooth and alluringly sweet finish. The grenache in this blend was raised in a large concrete vat.
Saxum's 2011 James Berry Vineyard is dark, rich and enveloping. At the same time, underlying veins of acidity give the wine its focus and length. Pomegranate, orange peel, sweet spices and leather are all very much alive in the glass. This is one of the more vibrant, polished young James Berry I can remember tasting. The 2011 should drink well right out of the gate, but also age gracefully for at least a handful of years. In 2011, the blend is 69% Grenache, 13% Mourvedre, 13% Syrah and dollops of Counoise and Roussanne. Half of the Grenache was done in concrete with a healthy dose (33%) of whole clusters.