2007 Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve

The largest scaled and most concentrated in the lineup is easily the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape La Reserve, which is 70% Grenache and 30% Mourvèdre that was raised all in demi-muids. Just a flat out sensational bottle of wine, it offers tons of black currants, licorice, roasted meats and toasted spice aromas and flavors in a full-bodied, seamless, perfectly balanced style that’s drunk well since release. It’s great today, but has another decade or more of longevity.

Coming all from sandy soils and a blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Mourvèdre that’s aged in new demi-muids, the 2007 Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine du Caillou Reserve shows a decidedly modern flair, yet in my view, remains firmly planted in the south of France. Decadent and incredibly rich, yet also amazingly refined and polished (no doubt due to the sandy soils), this delivers upfront, sweet aromas of blackberry, plum, licorice, meat juice, and graphite on the nose. This flows seamlessly to a full-bodied, thrillingly concentrated and polished wine that has a perfect texture, no weight, and a broad, chewy finish that has you looking for another glass. Given the purity and overall balance and harmony, I’ve not doubt this will show more typicity as it ages. As with a number of top ‘07s, this needed loads of air and didn’t really shine until the second day. Thrilling stuff to say the least.

Dark purple. Hypnotic bouquet of red and dark berry compote, flowers and spices, with notes of smoky garrigue and cola gaining power with air. Manages to be both dense and energetic, offering sweet raspberry and boysenberry flavors underscored by candied flowers and herbs. The finish refuses to let up, repeating the sweet berry and floral notes with great authority. (JR)