2021 Kistler Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard Athearn Estate

The 2021 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard has a powerful expression, with highly concentrated flavors and generous, juicy acidity. Wafts of iodine, seaweed and lemon peel give way to undertones of almonds and beeswax waiting to emerge. Medium-bodied and lively, the palate catches you off guard with its bursts of concentrated, grapefruit-tinged flavors, tangy acidity and satiny mouthfeel, and a touch of grip draws out the candied-citrus finish. It deserves 2-3+ years to unfold in bottle and will be long lived.

A youthful golden hue, the 2021 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard offers aromas of golden fruits, wet stone, chamomile, and pineapple rind. Medium to full-bodied, it has good energy throughout, with a chalky texture and ripe fruit of peach, orange zest, and a hint of savory saline. With fantastic warming spice and a finish that lasts for days, it’s well-balanced and long on the palate, with good freshness. Drink it over the next 10-12 years. Located in the Russian River Valley, Kistler is led today by winemaker Jason Kesner, who continues the long tradition of working from a singular clone of Chardonnay with Burgundian lineage that Steve Kistler, now of Occidental Wines, began in the 1980s. The 2021s were all tasted at the winery with Jason this May. Across the board, the wines from this vintage carry a savory profile that’s less about its fruit character and more about texture and sense of place, expressing a haunting sense of power and range. These are wines that I sometimes find difficult to pin down into words, but they are truly worth experiencing for yourself.