1985 Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard

In some tastings this wine has been controversial because it was alleged to have a damp, woody, musty character. In the March tasting (my seventh look at this brilliant wine), I found it once again to be clean and hardly controversial - unless explosive richness and ripeness, as well as gobs of sweet fruit presented in a full-bodied, powerful style are objectionable. The wine was more developed and open than I expected. The mint/eucalyptus character, which can be extremely intense in the Martha's Vineyard cuvee, was presented in a subtle fashion. Expansive and chewy, with superb ripe fruit and concentration, this wine should continue to drink well for 10-20 years.