2009 Kongsgaard Chardonnay

The 2009 Chardonnay is breathtaking. It shows gorgeous layers of fruit intermingled with French oak in a dazzling expression of varietal Chardonnay aromas and flavors. It is weightless, elegant and totally harmonious; in a word – fabulous.

The 2009 Chardonnay is breathtaking. It shows gorgeous layers of fruit intermingled with French oak in a dazzling expression of varietal Chardonnay aromas and flavors. It is weightless, elegant and totally harmonious; in a word - fabulous. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. The long, winding drive on an early Sunday morning up to John Kongsgaard's place on Atlas Peak was well worth the effort. The small, nondescript cellar is decorated with photos of famous classical musicians that replace conventional numbers on the tanks. As for the wines, they are flat-out stunning. Kongsgaard's Chardonnays are fermented with wild yeasts and are bottled with no fining or filtration after two years in barrel. The 100% new oak is barely perceptible in these fabulous wines. The Cabernet Sauvignons are now made from Kongsgaard's vineyards in Atlas Peak. Incidentally, Kongsgaard was among the latest to harvest his Cabernet in 2011. As of October 23, not a single Cabernet grape had been brought in. Fax (707) 226-2936

(racked off its lees a month before my visit): Energetic aromas of apricot, wild mint, sexy minerality and lime zest. Dry yet exotic, with brisk acidity and a saline quality giving shape and energy to the middle palate. Very ripe but less tropical in style than the 2008 version. Finishes subtle, broad, long and very dry, with a captivating sappy quality.