1998 Gracia

A spectacular effort, the 1998 exhibits an opaque purple color as well as a gorgeous bouquet of overripe black cherries intermixed with blackberries, blueberries, licorice, and smoky oak. Full-bodied, low in acidity, opulent, fleshy, and undeniably disarming, it offers layers of fruit in addition to sweet tannin in the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2016. This is a garage wine that has many Medoc aristocrats unsettled as well as jealous of the prices these small gems are fetching, Gracia is produced from a 4.4-acre vineyard with microscopic yields of 22 hectoliters per hectare. It is aged in 100% new oak. The blend is 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the wine is bottled without fining or filtration.

Pure merlot, from a Sylvain barrel: Deep, saturated ruby-purple. Vibrant aromas of black cherry, violet and bitter chocolate; essence of merlot. Sweet, dense and pliant, with lovely dark berry flavors. Substantial but even tannins cover the palate. Merlot from a Taransaud barrel: Smoky oak, game, chocolate and mocha on the nose. Lush and strong in extract. Merlot from a Berger barrel (a cooper based north of St. Estephe whose barrels are more frequently used in the Medoc): Deepest ruby. Valrhona chocolate and spicy oak on the nose. Lush and extremely deep. Suave tannins. Merlot with some cabernet franc, also from a Berger barrel: Floral and fresh blood aromas. Creamy but vibrant; microbullage here has kept the wine extremely primary. Superb lift on the palate. Merlot with about 30% cabernet sauvignon and franc, from a Taransaud barrel: Boysenberry and a floral note on the nose. Creamy-sweet and oaky. Merlot with about 30% cabernet sauvignon and franc, in a Sylvain barrel: Bright, pungent aromas of dark berries and spices. Much more tannic than the last sample. Approximate final blend, consisting of 85% merlot, 10% cabernet franc and 5% cabernet sauvignon: Deep ruby. Superripe aromas of kirsch, blackberry, bitter chocolate and beefsteak tomato. Superripe and creamy in the mouth, but bright and fresh; complicating mineral, dark chocolate and mint notes. Very long and lush on the back end, with ripe tannins reaching the entire mouth. Offers great potential.