2017 Monopole Clasico
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Tasting notes
Full, cork-stoppered bottle 1,240 g. From a vintage shrunk by drought and frost, a blend of grape varieties from CVNE's own vineyards in Villalba de Rioja, just over five hectares planted in the early 21st century, facing east and on limestone soil at 600 m. The grapes are pressed gently and, as in the 1960s, the must is transferred to concrete vats where it is allowed to settle. The alcoholic fermentation takes place in stainless-steel vats and, once completed, the wine is racked along with its fine lees to used barrels and larger botas. The wine remains in barrel for around eight months. The wine is characterised by the addition of a small amount of Manzanilla, which is made according to the traditional technique including a period of biological ageing under a layer of flor. Deep greenish straw colour. Pungent and interesting on the nose that really does smell a bit like white rioja and a bit like a Manzanilla! On the palate the latter rather takes over, although with the addition of a relatively high level of acidity (though it's only 5.27 g/l apparently). Some grip and some light butterscotch on the finish. Very particular! (JR)
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
James Suckling
More reviews and scores
The fourth release of the white that follows the classical recipe is the 2017 Monopole Clásico, a white Rioja with a Jerez spirit, produced with early-picked grapes in the warmer 2017 to preserve aromas and freshness. It fermented in stainless steel and was transferred to used barriques and sherry casks with lees for its élevage for eight months. The unusual thing about this wine is that they added a small portion of Manzanilla, a biologically aged Palomino from Sanlúcar de Barrameda. So, the nose has an unmistakably sherry twist, with a touch of curry and esparto grass, a tendency that, in the unusual 2017, makes the wine a little riper than it was in 2016. It is clearly marked by the process, where the challenge is that the sherry character doesn't mask the Rioja origin or the style of the year. It needs to have acidity, so they picked earlier to avoid the danger of over-ripeness. The palate is tasty, with a very pleasant bitter twist in the finish and the textbook salinity and the chalkiness from both places. Fresh for the vintage. 25,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2019.
This is so much fun and one of my favorite whites from Spain. Medium to full body. Nutty and creamy with ripe peach and pine, but always the light, Sherry-cask undertone. Honey and dried fruit at the end. Drink now.
About the producer
CVNE, or Compañía Vinicola del Norte de España (the Northern Spanish Wine Company), is one of Rioja’s leading names. With its various brands – Cune, Viña Real, Contino and Imperial – CVNE produces both large volumes and high quality, with its Imperial Gran Reserva one of the region’s finest wines.
Product details
Macabeo/Macabeu/Viura, Malvasia, Grenache Blanc / Garnacha Blanca, Other
White
Dry