1990 Barolo Riserva Brunate
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Tasting notes
Last but not least was the Rinaldi’s 1990 Barolo Riserva Selezionata Brunata, which we drank from an antique 1.9L bottiglione. This hand-blown, large bottle was once sold to private customers with the idea that they would fill two standard bottles on their own and have a little left for sediment. Back in the day, Beppe Rinaldi would occasionally sell these, but only on the condition that the glass was returned once the wine had been drunk. No, I don’t think he gave them back re-filled! In any event, the wine was spectacular. And I mean Spectacular. Nineteen ninety was an epic vintage. In many ways, it was the first vintage that attracted the widespread attention of American consumers, as the wines were unusually open and flamboyant. The Rinaldi is all that, but it is also deep and marvelously complex, with tons of Brunate dark fruit mixed with balsamic overtones. Readers lucky enough to own it can look forward to another two decades of exceptional drinking.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 1990 Barolo Riserva Selezionata Brunata is without question the most surprising wine in this grouping. Vertical, deep and bursting with energy, the 1990 frankly leaves me speechless. At nearly thirty years of age, it is also remarkably fresh. Like the 1997, the 1990 offers a thrilling combination of old-school classicism with that extra touch of mid-palate sweetness from the hot growing season. In London, the 1990 was mesmerizing. In New York, it is even better!
What a thrill it is to taste and drink the 1990 Barolo Riserva Selezionata Brunata from magnum. Deep, rich and luscious, but with a very classic expression of structure, the 1990 is simply magnificent. Leather, smoke, coffee, tobacco and spicebox infuse a core of racy dark fruit in this towering monument to the heights that Nebbiolo can reach. A transcendental wine, the 1990 simply has it all. Battista Rinaldi’s Barolo are now nearly impossible to find. Readers who have had the 1985 or 1989, not to mention older vintages, know just how special these wines can be. The 1990 sits comfortably among Battista Rinaldi’s very best wines.
The 1990 Barolo Riserva Brunate is very much a mirror image of the vintage; fat, rich and opulent, with gorgeous inner perfume and superb balance. It is awfully hard to pick a favorite here, as both wines are drop-dead gorgeous. Wow. Despite the wine's huge fruit the tannins and structure remain formidable, and this is one case where the 1990 may very well at the same pace as the 1989. In fact, this is one of the few 1990s that comes across as needing more time! In any event, the 1990 Barolo Riserva Brunate is a monumental, towering wine from one of Barolo's icon producers.
About the producer
Giuseppe Rinaldi is one of the most famous names in Piedmont, revered for producing staunchly traditional, highly collectable Nebbiolo wines.