2006 Rioja Reserva

The 2006 Reserva is a blend of 88% Tempranillo, 7% Mazuelo, 3% Garnacha and 2% Graciano that is aged for 18 months in 225-liter American oak. It is very reticent on the nose, offering tantalizing glimpses of blackberry, leather and black pepper, but it never really “takes off.” The palate has a rounded, very oaky entry with sweet dark cherry, cassis and boysenberry fruit. It is succulent and fleshy, though it is missing some complexity towards the commercially minded finish. There is nothing really wrong here, but it does not stick in the memory. Drink now-2022. One of the most famous names in Rioja, Marques de Murrieta was founded in 1852 by Luciano Murrieta, who was inspired by his three-year sojourn in Bordeaux. In 1983 it was purchased by Vicente Dalmau Cebrian-Sagarriga and presently, winemaker Maria Vargas oversees their portfolio that includes both modern and classic styles of Rioja. The 300 hectares of vines on the Ygay Estate in La Rioja Alta allows them to control the quality and within this estate they have singled out specific parcels for their flagship wines. I will start with the white wines. I must confess that I was alarmed by the amount of oxidation shown by the three vintages of Capellania Blanco Reserva that I tasted. Both bottles of the 2005 and 2006 appeared to be excessively oxidized to a degree that I will not pass judgement. Importer: Maisons Marques & Domaines, Oakland CA; tel. (510) 587-2000.