2009 Barbaresco Pajore

The 2009 Barbaresco Pajore boasts stunning depth, power and richness, all supported by the saline minerality of these poor, white soils. The Pajore is the most fiercely tannic of the 2009s. Layers of menthol, spices, licorice and a host of balsamic notes wrap around the juicy, opulent finish. This is a gorgeous wine, but it also shows the limits of the vintage in tannins that will probably never fully integrate. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2024. I can’t say enough good things about the Sottimano family and the work they have done over the years to firmly establish themselves among Barbaresco’s top growers. This is one of the few places in Piedmont where every wine is consistently delicious. The only question is how delicious. In recent years, Andrea Sottimano has worked to give his Barbareschi extended time on the lees in a cold cellar, which also slows down the malos. This distinctly Burgundian approach stands in stark contrast to the way most French oak-aged wines are made in Piedmont, where malos typically follow right after the alcoholic fermentations. I tasted the 2010s just after they were bottled. Readers should take these notes as brief impressions on wines that will continue to come to life with further time in bottle. Various American importers, including Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; tel. (415) 492-9411; Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343

Less new oak than on the 2008 (just 10% suited the vintage). But it still smells oakier than the 2008, more spicy in a darker frame. Darker and sweeter and richer in the fruit spectrum too. Big and bold in a refined Nebbiolo way but still retains a lovely coolness and fragrance on the palate. Tannins more of a block at the moment but it's obvious they will resolve. (JH)

(from a high-altitude, limestone-rich vineyard in Treiso): Good bright red. Sexy, elegant nose offers strawberry, raspberry, tobacco and spices. Juicy and primary for the vintage, with excellent mineral and spicy cut giving precision to the middle palate. Very Treiso in character, and the highest in acidity of these 2009 Barbarescos (6 grams, vs. 5.5 for the others). Finishes energetic and long, with chewy, firm tannins and terrific lift. This really transcends the vintage. "But not the best style of wine for a blind tasting," notes Sottimano.