2008 Pinot Noir Rincon Vineyard

The 2008 Pinot Noir Rincon Vineyard is one of the more delicate, reserved wines in this line-up. Bright cherries, flowers, mint and minerals come together beautifully in this nuanced, classy offering. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Brian Talley doesn’t miss a beat. This is an impressive set of wines from top to bottom. In general, I have a slight preference for the 2008 Chardonnays over the 2009s, as I find the earlier vintage shows more delineation and finesse. Readers who prefer a bold, overt style of Chardonnay may find more immediate pleasure in the 2009s. The Chardonnays were fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged on their lees in 30% new oak. The 2008 Pinots are terrific, but they need quite a bit of air to show their best. The Pinots were fermented in open top fermenters, using native yeasts, and aged in barrel for 18-19 months. Talley used 30-35% new oak for the Pinots. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2009 Pinots, which had just been bottled. Tel. (805) 489-0446; www.talleyvineyards.com

Vivid red. Deep, pungent nose combines raspberry, blackberry, Asian spices, flowers and cola. Sappy, seamless and sweet, showing lively mineral character and sweet red fruit and floral pastille flavors. This focused, taut wine is quite elegant, finishing with alluring spiciness, a dusting of silky tannins and a distinctly floral element.