1994 Upper Barn Chardonnay

Because of a smaller than normal crop, it will be even harder than usual to latch onto a bottle or two of these exquisite Chardonnays. Both 1994 Marcassin offerings possess as much flavor complexity and texture as can be found in this varietal, including white burgundies from such proven superstars as Michel Niellon and Jean-Francois Coche-Dury. Since there will be no Lorenzo Vineyard in 1994, there will only be a total of 500 cases of wine available! There are 27 barrels of the 1995s (which also looks superb for Helen Turley and her husband/partner, John Wetlaufer), 12 from the Hudson Vineyard, 7 from the Gauer Ranch Upper Barn, and 8 from Lorenzo, so production in 1995 will soar to a whopping 635 cases. These unfiltered Chardonnays are among the world's most concentrated and provocative wines, with a degree of complexity and balance that must be tasted to be believed. Both will be released in late spring, 1996, and if past history is any indication, they will be sold out within 24 hours. The 1994 Chardonnay Gauer Ranch-Upper Barn is a mind-boggling effort. It exhibits a medium straw color with a rich looking, thick texture. Intense aromas of orange blossoms, honey, cherries, and well-integrated, spicy new oak are followed by a lavishly rich, full-bodied, unctuously-textured wine. Gorgeously pure, with layers of fruit, this is a profound wine that should make consumers realize the extraordinary potential possessed by selected California vineyards. As a postscript, I noted a mineral, liquid stone character that emerged from this wine as it sat in the glass. Once again, Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer have produced riveting examples of American viticulture. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633