2004 La Serenne Syrah

(100% syrah, entirely from Boushey Vineyard fruit; aged in 40% new oak) Full medium ruby. Knockout nose features black raspberry, blackberry, bitter chocolate, truffle, minerals, leather, gunflint, meat and violet; this couldn't be anything but syrah. Wonderfully sweet, seamless and deep, with an enticing spicecake character to the complex berry, mineral and mocha flavors. Perfectly judged oak (40% new) contributes precision without being at all intrusive. Finishes classically dry and exotically spicy, with thoroughly ripe tannins and terrific grip. (A second bottle showed an even more perfumed blackberry quality.) Betz noted that this wine in past vintages was more French in style, but that in 2004 it's the Cote Rousse that's more Old World.