2012 Chablis Les Clos

The 2012 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos comes from half a hectare of vine cropped at 45 hectoliters per hectare and spends 20 months in stainless steel and wooden barrels. It has a strident bouquet that comes at you with lemon curd, dried pineapple, beeswax and coconut, although perhaps it seems a little obvious compared to its peers. The palate is ripe and rounded on the entry. This is a very gras Les Clos with a ripe, tropical-tinged finish, although it does not have the pedigree of other grand crus. Drink now-2019. La Chablisienne is one of Chablis’ most high-profile cooperatives and a great success story. Founded back in 1923 and still going strong, it is said that they oversee approximately one-quarter of the region’s production, around 300 individual growers. Therefore, just like Georges Duboeuf in Beaujolais or Louis Jadot in the Cote d’Or, it is important that they maintain standards irrespective of high volumes, since their size ensures that they have an ambassadorial role for Chablis, for ordinary punters perhaps seeking to broaden their horizons. In this respect, the wines should not be looked down upon given the showing here. While none of them reached the heady heights of Chablis’ most revered artisans, there was certainly a consistency across the range that when coupled with the volume produced, deserves to be applauded. Importers: Ruby Wines (MA), Opici Wines (NY), Grape Expectations (CA), Brescome Barton (CT)